Kashmiri Shawls Industry is the pioneer handicraft and has been here for times immemorial. Kashmiris have been making shawls for thousands of years owing to the cold climate and abundance of pure wool available in valley. On the eve of Mughal occupation of Kashmir, shawl industry was extensively established and achieved the highest degree of perfection. Jehangir, one of the Mughal emperors says about these shawls , ” These are so excellent that there is no need to praise them”.
About Kashmir Shawls it is said “Of all Indian textiles none excels in beauty, colour, texture and design as the famous Kashmir Shawl”.
Shawls are produced by two techniques, loom woven or kani shawls and the needle embroidered or sozni shawls.
The basic fabric is of the three types – Shah Tush, Pashmina and Raffal. Shah Tush (King of wool) passes through a ring and is also known as Ring shawl. It comes from a rare Tibetan antelope living at a height of over 14000 ft in the wilds of the Himalayas. Pashmina is known world over as cashmere wool, it comes from a special goat (Capra hircus) living at an altitude of 12000 to 14000 ft reared by shephered nomads around famous pongkong lake in close vicinity of western Tibet. Raffal is spun out of marino wool tops and is a popular type of shawl.
The shawls are embroidered in floral motifs, various designs available range from Neemdoor, Doordaar, Paladaar, Baildaar, Jaalis and Jammas, with the help of needle. Where as kani shawls are woven on looms with the help of kanis. Kanis are small eyeless bobbins used instead of the shuttle.
John lrwin in his well-known book, “Kashmir Shawls’ says.” The local tradition held so far is that the founder of the shawl industry was Sultan Zain-ul-Abidin (1421-72). Some other writers on the subject trace the origin of the industry to earlier times.
Raw material: There are two principal types of fabrics that are used for making shawls – Pashmina, Raffel.
Pashmina: Pashmina – the word derived from Persian word meaning wool is known as cashmere in western countries. The fiber for this extremely soft, warm and light wool is combed from the undercoat of the Goats living in the most remote areas of the Himalayan Mountain range, Nepal & Tibetan border and Ladakh region of Kashmir. Prices of shawls made of Pashmina depend upon the quantity of pure Pashmina as it is usually blended with ordinary wool or rabbit’s hair. we have huge variety of selection to choose from. You can even order how much Pashmina you want in your shawl – 80 % Pashmina & 20 % Wool or vice versa. the combination can be of Pashmina with Silk / Wool / Cotton / Synthetic Fabric.
Kashmiri Pashmina shawls are world famous for their quality and embroidery because only Kashmiri Pashmina shawls are embroidered. The very expensive among these are “Jamawar shawls” which are embroidered all over, and normally take one full year or more for completion; other Pashmina shawls Jali Shawls, Doordar Shawl, Bootidar Shawl, Neemdoor Shawl etc being only embroidered to a lesser extent, normally the central area, sieve-like embroidery or just a strip along its borders.
Raffle is the simplest kind of the fabric that is used to make shawls in Kashmir
The Kashmiri shawl industry is a hallmark of the region’s rich cultural heritage, and it dates back thousands of years. With its cold climate and abundant supply of high-quality wool, Kashmir has been a hub for shawl-making since ancient times. These luxurious shawls reached new heights of popularity and craftsmanship during the Mughal period, particularly under Emperor Jahangir, who famously remarked, “These are so excellent that there is no need to praise them.”
Unique Techniques and Fabrics
Kashmiri shawls are produced using two distinct techniques:
- Kani Shawls (Loom Woven): These shawls are woven on looms using kanis, small eyeless bobbins that replace the traditional shuttle. Kani shawls are intricate and labor-intensive, often taking months or even years to complete.
- Sozni Shawls (Needle Embroidered): Sozni embroidery uses fine needles to create beautiful floral or paisley designs, typically decorating the borders and central panels of the shawl.
Types of Fabrics
- Shah Tush (Ring Shawl): Made from the wool of the Tibetan antelope, Shah Tush is so fine that it can pass through a ring. This rare fabric is extremely lightweight yet provides exceptional warmth, making it one of the most luxurious shawls.
- Pashmina (Cashmere): Derived from the soft undercoat of the Capra hircus goat found in the high-altitude regions of Ladakh and Tibet, Pashmina is known for its warmth, softness, and durability. These shawls are often blended with silk or wool to create variations in texture and price.
- Raffal: A simpler fabric made from merino wool, Raffal is more affordable but still offers the same warmth and softness associated with Kashmiri shawls.
Famous Designs
Kashmiri shawls are renowned for their intricate designs, with some popular patterns including:
- Neemdoor and Doordaar: These shawls feature fine needlework along the edges or over the entire surface.
- Paladaar and Baildaar: These shawls are elaborately decorated with large, sweeping designs, often in vibrant colors.
- Jaalis and Jammas: Known for their lattice or all-over patterns, Jaalis and Jammas are intricate and highly sought after.
Cultural Significance
Kashmiri shawls are more than just garments; they represent the region’s artistry and history. In his book Kashmir Shawls, historian John Irwin points out that the shawl industry was first formalized by Sultan Zain-ul-Abidin in the 15th century. Over the years, these shawls became a symbol of royalty and luxury, with their popularity spreading across India and the world.
The industry today continues to thrive, with Kashmiri Pashmina shawls being globally recognized for their quality and artistry. Some of the most expensive variants, like the Jamawar shawl, can take over a year to complete due to the elaborate, all-over embroidery.
Modern Adaptations
In modern times, shawl buyers can even customize their orders, choosing the percentage of Pashmina versus other materials, such as silk or wool, to suit their preferences. While the demand for these exquisite pieces remains strong, the craftsmanship involved in creating them is still rooted in centuries-old traditions.
Whether it’s a fine Shah Tush shawl or a delicately embroidered Pashmina, Kashmiri shawls continue to be a symbol of elegance and artistry worldwide